We have a range of instructional how to videos which can be viewed here: How To Videos.

Basic written instructions can be found on the reverse side of the brew can label.

For detailed written instructions, you can view & print here: Brewing Extract Instructions.

The first time you use your kit from new, you can just rinse it in hot water. Just remember, whenever you’re cleaning your equipment, only use a soft cloth that won’t scratch it. For future brews, we recommend that you sanitise all your brewing equipment before each brew. Note: sanitising is most effective on equipment that has already been cleaned (free from any obvious soiling).

We recommend products which carry Oxygen Bleaching capacity (active ingredient - Sodium Percarbonate), such as Hypo-Allergenic or Sensitive Napisan type products. In the absence of these products, normal unscented household bleach (active ingredient - Sodium Hypochlorite) may be used.

To sanitise using Oxy Bleach Sanitiser: Dissolve 4 tablespoons of Sanitiser in the Fermenting Vessel (FV) with one litre of hot/warm water. Place all equipment in the FV, fill to the brim with cold water and let soak overnight (or at least 2 hours). Drain the FV through the tap and rinse all equipment thoroughly to remove any remaining suds.

To sanitise using Unscented Household Bleach: Add ¼ cup of unscented household bleach to the FV. Place all equipment in the FV, fill with cool water and let soak overnight (or at least 30mins). Rinse out with hot water to remove all traces of chlorine smell.

When pitching your Yeast, getting your brew temperature right (approximately 21°C) is important, the first time you brew we recommend you do a 'Wet Run' without ingredients.

· Using cold water, fill the FV to the 15 litre mark and make a note of the temperature. Your Thermometer Strip may show colour in 2 or 3 panels, the middle of this range is the temperature of your brew.

· Continue filling to 23 litre mark, using either hot or cold water so that you achieve an 18°C - 21°C water temperature. If your tap water is over 21°C, chill 3 or 4 PET Bottles of water in the fridge for a few hours to use in your brew.

Most brewers find it easier to keep warm (with insulation) rather than cooling their brew because the brew generates heat as it ferments.

Non-electrical temperature control Wrap the fermenting tub in a 0ºC-5ºC rated sleeping bag , blankets or an old jacket. Place the fermenter in a large esky, insulated box, non-working fridge or freezer. Sit the fermenting tub in a laundry tub with frozen PET bottles. Place the fermenter in a cellar or on a cool bare concrete floor. Partially roll a towel and place in the lid of the fermenter, fill the well of the lid with cold water and drape the towel over the side of the fermenter allowing the water to wick down the towel.

Electrical temperature control Heat pad or heat belt. Tea chest, box, cupboard, old fridge etc. with a 25W-40W incandescent lamp controlled by a thermostat, dimmer switch or timer switch. Place in an air-conditioned room. Place in a working fridge or freezer with modified thermostat. Place near an inside storage hot water system. Wet towel method with an electric fan blowing over it.

The hydrometer is a calibrated instrument used to determine the Specific Gravity (SG) of the brew. SG is the density of a liquid relative to the density of water. With the hydrometer floating, the SG is read at the point where the graduated scale cuts the surface of the liquid in the sample flask (meniscus). We recommend the use of a hydrometer for checking that fermentation is complete before bottling. Two separate samples over 24hrs with the same reading indicates that fermentation is complete (Final Gravity - FG).

To get an accurate reading you may need to 'de-gas' your sample. To do this, pass the sample from one glass to another and back again four to five times, then return the sample to the flask. Ensure that enough beer is in the flask to allow the hydrometer to float freely and the surface is relatively free of foam. To dislodge bubbles clinging to the Coopers DIY Beer plastic hydrometer, tap the floating hydrometer downward so that it bumps on the base of the measuring tube. Note, do not attempt this if you have a glass hydrometer.

Please note that FG may vary from brew to brew. So it’s important to ensure that the FG is stable over two days prior to bottling.

For more information, click to watch our how-to-video on Hydrometer Use.

Since 2000, Coopers DIY Beer has provided PET bottles as an alternative to glass, because most commercial beer is packaged in single use glass bottles, which are too thin to stand up to the rigours of continual washing and capping. The main advantage to using PET instead of glass is that if the brewer unwittingly bottles infected beer or beer that hasn’t finished fermenting, they won’t have exploding glass bottles to contend with.

PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate, which is the same plastic used to make soft drink (soda pop) bottles. PET bottles are BPA free and recyclable when they eventually need replacing.

Our PET bottles have re-usable caps with a tamper evident collar that breaks off after the first use; this does not affect the airtight seal. When the caps eventually wear out, replacement caps can be purchased separately.

Note: PET is temperature-sensitive and should not be cleaned using hot water. PET bottles should be triple rinsed with cold water immediately after use and allowed to drain dry. Do not put the cap back on a bottle until it is completely dry. Before refilling, they can be sanitised using a mild bleach solution and rinsed several times - until no chlorine odour is detectable. There are several “no rinse” sanitising products based on phosphoric acid available through specialist stores that are very effective and “water friendly”.